Spa & Hot Tub Tips and Maintenance

Spa Care-The Stuff Nobody Tells You

You bought a spa to relax and relieve your tension, but now you are faced with the ongoing task of testing the water and keeping it balanced. There are some other issues that may arise that are rarely discussed anywhere. This posting is not meant to deal with the routine maintenance (but I’ll have to talk about some of the basics) but rather some tips to make it easy.

First, a spa is not “a small pool”. While the equipment is similar to a pool system (pump, filter, heater) there are significant differences. First is the water temperature. Typical pool water temperature ranges between 78 and 82 degrees F while spa water temperature is typically 102 to 104 degrees F. The rate of bacteria growth increases in the warmer water of the spa. This warmer water opens skin pores making the participants more susceptible to skin infections. Additionally, there are usually more bathers per gallon of water in a spa. This means that the bacteria, etc. entering the water via the bathers is greater per gallon. These differences make it critical that proper water chemistry is maintained. Sounds difficult and scary but actually I have found that maintaining a spa is far simpler than maintaining a pool.

First, you need to test the water with some type of test kit. I use test strips (I use AquaChek Pool & Spa Test Strips).

Tip #1

My daughter, who works in a medical research lab, gave me this tip. Cut the test strips lengthwise with a pair of scissors. A 50-test strip container now provides 100 strips.

The test strips indicate, by color changes to the 4 pads, the chemistry for your water. The four indicators are for Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, and Cyanuric Acid. If the strip indicates a low chlorine reading, add chlorine. If the pH needs adjustment, add pH Up or pH Down-whatever is needed. You will find that your water has a specific profile. For example, I never need to use pH Down-only pH Up. Bromine is also used in place of chlorine (bromine does not have the strong smell typical of chlorine).

Tip #2

Test your water chemistry at least once a week-even if no one has used the spa during the week.

Test your water chemistry after a period of heavy usage-like after a party.

Test your water chemistry after every time you add water.

Keep your tub covered and locked when not being used. It is safer, cheaper to operate, and it reduces the required maintenance. A cover will last 3-5 years. I buy my replacement covers at http://www.thecoverguy.com/.

Tip #3

Avoid putting anything in the water such as fragrances. I find that they mess up the chemistry. Burn incenses or light a candle instead.

If your tub is located outside (the best location for several reasons) and you live in a cool climate, mice may try to set up residence in your tub enclosure cabinet. Even though the ventilation slots are small and the openings are screened, mice will find a way in. If they decide to live in your tub enclosure their urine will begin to become offensive to the spa users.

Tip #4

To keep mice out of your tub cabinet try the following:

Remove the access door several times a season and check for droppings or small pieces of insulation.

Place sheets of fabric softener stuffed in various areas inside the cabinet area. Mice don’t like the smell.

Keep a spray bottle of peppermint water near the spa. Every time you use the spa spray the mixture around the outside perimeter. Mice don’t like the smell of peppermint either.

Place poison pellets inside (not outside-you don’t want to kill the cat) the cabinet.

If you need to repair your spa (replace pump, motor, heater element-if electric, etc.), know that it is quite a simple system and that handy individuals can manage it themselves. If you are not knowledgeable about electricity, plumbing, or gas, hire a technician. For parts, I buy them at www.spacare.com. They have a good troubleshooting section on their website, they are knowledgeable, and they respond to your questions. I have also had good luck North Coast Spa & Hot Tub at http://www.ncspa.com/parts.html.

Empty the spa, clean the interior tub surface, and clean filters two or three times a year (depends on usage). I replace my filter(s) once a year. I buy my filters at www.focuspools.com. For cleaning filters, use cleaner specifically formulated for use with spa filters. Other types of cleaners may damage the filters or alter the water chemistry. Dirty filters can damage the spa pump and electronics and may create less stable water chemistry. Keep your filters clean!

For more information on spas (repair, glossary, maintenance) try the following sites:

www.spababes.com

www.focuspools.com

Using the above advice and tips you can enjoy you spa with less stress and expense. After all, you bought the tub to relax!

Furnace Filters and Maintenance

Most everyone I know ignores their furnace. It just seems to be one of those things that no one wants to deal with. But, with just a little bit of attention, you can keep your furnace and your house air healthy.

For most home furnaces up to 10 years in age, cleaning and inspection by a professional is required only every 2 years. After 10 years, you should have your furnace inspected and cleaned once a year. Of course, technicians will recommend servicing every year from day one. It can't hurt, but it is an unnecessary expense.

Furnace filters should be replace when they are dirty, not ever XX months. There are two major furnace filter types-mechanical and electronic.

Mechanical Type Filters

Mechanical filters range between 1 and 5 inches in thickness. They provide a physical barrier to airborne particles. The finer the "holes" the smaller the particles that will be trapped. The furnace should not be operated without filter(s) in place (some furnaces require more than one filter). Make certain that the filter is installed correctly. The direction of placement is indicated by an air flow arrow located on the outer "rim" for the filter. The arrow should be pointed in the direction of the air flow.

Some Lennox furnaces use a basket type fiberglass filter which sets in a wire frame. The frame itself is not a filter. Don't operate this type of furnace without the fiberglass media installed.

With filters, generally you get what you pay for. Cheap filters can collapse and be sucked into the blower/fan compartment. Cheap filters will only filter the largest of airborne filters. Cheap filters usually need to be replaced more frequently. Persons with allergies will get no relief from the use of cheap filters. Filters range in price from <$1 to $35.

I use a Skuttle High Efficiency filter. It is 5" thick and each filter runs about $26 (I buy them online). We replace our filter every 3 to 6 months. We do not have pets, and this can make a big difference in how long a filter will last.

TIP #1
Our thermostat fan setting is always set to "ON"...not AUTO. If you set your fan to the "ON" position you can enjoy a much reduced level of dust in your home and on your furniture surfaces. The air is continually filtered and is never allowed to settle. Your home will also have a more consistent temperature throughout. If someone in your home has allergies, the severity of their reaction to dust particles will be reduced because the air is super filtered. And, believe it or not, your blower will last longer-yes, longer. Starting and stopping your blower is harder on it than running it constantly. We never turn our blower off (throughout the year).

Tip #2
Don't try to clean a dirty filter, even with compressed air. Break out your wallet and buy a new filter.

Electronic Type

Some (manufacturers?) claim that electronic filters are more efficient (than mechanical). I don't think that they are any more efficient than a well maintained high efficiency mechanical filter. Electronic filters consist of a metal cabinet, a removable air cleaner unit, 120V electrical connection, and a switch. Dust particles drawn across the wires or plates are attracted to the electrically charged surfaces where the particles remain until the air cleaner unit is cleaned. When removing the unit for cleaning, make sure that the power is OFF. Do not stick your hand into the unit. Wait 30 seconds before sliding the unit out of the cabinet. This allows the residual charge to dissipate. Be very careful when handling the unit(s). The units consist of very fine wires and are delicate. They can be easily broken and may be sharp. Clean the unit per the manufacturer's instructions. I know of homeowners who run the units through a cycle in their dishwasher, but I can't vouch for this method.

Tip #3
Change dirty filters. Dirty filters restrict airflow, reduce comfort, increase operating costs, can ice up air conditioning coils, and overheat the heat exchanger. Keeping your filter clean is your first and most significant defense against damage and wear and tear on your furnace.