Clothes Dryer Ducting & Venting

According to FEMA, there are about 15,600 fires, 15 deaths, and 400 injuries every year that are caused by clothes dryer fires. Seventy per cent of the fires are attributed to "failure to clean". Failure to clean means more than just "remove the lint from the lint filter after each cycle". This blog will address the most common issues related to dryers and dryer duct materials and maintenance.

First, some basics. A full load of wet clothes contains as much as 1.5 gallons of water. No homeowner would consider pouring 1.5 gallons of water on the basement floor, inside of a crawlspace, or into an attic each time a load of clothes was dried. So, every dryer should be vented. Failure to do this can cause considerable damage to the wood structure in the enclosed area and can also promote the growth of mildew and mold. Just as with bathroom vents, always, always vent the air to the outside of the building. Outside means outdoors, not just out of the immediate living area.

Dryer venting should not exceed the equivalent length of 25'. Each 90° elbow effectively adds 5' to the equivalent length. So, a vent pipe with 2-90° elbows reduces the possible length of the straight piping to a maximum of 15'. Always keep the vent pipe system as short as possible.

The American Household Appliance Manufacturers Association recommends the use of UL listed rigid aluminum or steel duct or spiral-wound aluminum flex hose. Vinyl (usually white) flexible hose should never be used for clothes dryer venting systems.

Vinyl Flexible Hose is Not Acceptable for Venting Clothes Dryers

In fact, smooth rigid ducting is preferred as it is easier to clean the inside surface and the inside surface provides no interruptions that can restrict airflow and increase turbulence (as can even occur with spiral wound aluminum hose). The smooth surface of a rigid duct prevents lint from collecting inside the vent. However, sometimes it is very difficult to install rigid duct by convoluted space restrictions and spiral wound aluminum flex hose must be used.

When attaching sections of straight pipe and elbows, do not use sheet metal screws which will act as lint traps. Always tape the joints using UL-181 Approved metal foil tape. This is true for rigid steel and aluminum duct or aluminum spiral wound aluminum flex hose.

Typical Metal Foil Tape

Blockage of dryer venting systems is the most prevalent cause of clothes dryer fires. Blockage of the system reduces the airflow and can create a highly flammable fuel source. Failure to keep the system lint-free will also lengthen the drying time for each load. A clothes dryer must work much harder to move the moisture and lint through the ducting and can cause some dryer components to fail. Clean the lint filter after every load. Some clothes and materials (fuzzy blankets, coats, etc.) can completely block the lint filter after a single cycle.

A secondary source of blockage can occur at the outside wall damper. If there is no damper, birds and bees can enter and build homes that severely restrict the required air flow. The wall damper can also become clogged with large collections of lint. All clothes vent systems should exit through a wall damper that prevents infiltration by insects and bees. Homeowners should make a habit of checking the outside wall damper at least once a month. If you can't remember, put it on your calendar. My wall damper exits near the patio, so I try to make a visual check whenever I pass by.

Typical Louver Type Wall Damper
(dryer is operating in photo)

In summary:

• Clean out your lint filter after each dry cycle
  
• Keep the length of the vent pipe system as short as possible and always no longer than 25'
  
• Install an outside wall vent that will prevent bees and birds from entering
• Always duct the system to the outdoors
• Never use vinyl hose as your ducting material
  
• Attach sections of vent piping using UL-181 Approved metal foil tape--never use screws
• Inspect your duct system periodically to make certain that it is providing a clean, clear path to the outdoors
• Inspect your outside wall vent ever month to make certain that it is functioning properly
• Never place items such as plastic, foam, or other synthetic materials that can increase the risk of fire
• If you notice that clothes, such as jeans, towels, or blankets are taking a long time to dry or that the clothes feel hotter than usual at the end of the cycle, inspect your lint filter and vent system for blockages.
  

Spa & Hot Tub Tips and Maintenance

Spa Care-The Stuff Nobody Tells You

You bought a spa to relax and relieve your tension, but now you are faced with the ongoing task of testing the water and keeping it balanced. There are some other issues that may arise that are rarely discussed anywhere. This posting is not meant to deal with the routine maintenance (but I’ll have to talk about some of the basics) but rather some tips to make it easy.

First, a spa is not “a small pool”. While the equipment is similar to a pool system (pump, filter, heater) there are significant differences. First is the water temperature. Typical pool water temperature ranges between 78 and 82 degrees F while spa water temperature is typically 102 to 104 degrees F. The rate of bacteria growth increases in the warmer water of the spa. This warmer water opens skin pores making the participants more susceptible to skin infections. Additionally, there are usually more bathers per gallon of water in a spa. This means that the bacteria, etc. entering the water via the bathers is greater per gallon. These differences make it critical that proper water chemistry is maintained. Sounds difficult and scary but actually I have found that maintaining a spa is far simpler than maintaining a pool.

First, you need to test the water with some type of test kit. I use test strips (I use AquaChek Pool & Spa Test Strips).

Tip #1

My daughter, who works in a medical research lab, gave me this tip. Cut the test strips lengthwise with a pair of scissors. A 50-test strip container now provides 100 strips.

The test strips indicate, by color changes to the 4 pads, the chemistry for your water. The four indicators are for Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, and Cyanuric Acid. If the strip indicates a low chlorine reading, add chlorine. If the pH needs adjustment, add pH Up or pH Down-whatever is needed. You will find that your water has a specific profile. For example, I never need to use pH Down-only pH Up. Bromine is also used in place of chlorine (bromine does not have the strong smell typical of chlorine).

Tip #2

Test your water chemistry at least once a week-even if no one has used the spa during the week.

Test your water chemistry after a period of heavy usage-like after a party.

Test your water chemistry after every time you add water.

Keep your tub covered and locked when not being used. It is safer, cheaper to operate, and it reduces the required maintenance. A cover will last 3-5 years. I buy my replacement covers at http://www.thecoverguy.com/.

Tip #3

Avoid putting anything in the water such as fragrances. I find that they mess up the chemistry. Burn incenses or light a candle instead.

If your tub is located outside (the best location for several reasons) and you live in a cool climate, mice may try to set up residence in your tub enclosure cabinet. Even though the ventilation slots are small and the openings are screened, mice will find a way in. If they decide to live in your tub enclosure their urine will begin to become offensive to the spa users.

Tip #4

To keep mice out of your tub cabinet try the following:

Remove the access door several times a season and check for droppings or small pieces of insulation.

Place sheets of fabric softener stuffed in various areas inside the cabinet area. Mice don’t like the smell.

Keep a spray bottle of peppermint water near the spa. Every time you use the spa spray the mixture around the outside perimeter. Mice don’t like the smell of peppermint either.

Place poison pellets inside (not outside-you don’t want to kill the cat) the cabinet.

If you need to repair your spa (replace pump, motor, heater element-if electric, etc.), know that it is quite a simple system and that handy individuals can manage it themselves. If you are not knowledgeable about electricity, plumbing, or gas, hire a technician. For parts, I buy them at www.spacare.com. They have a good troubleshooting section on their website, they are knowledgeable, and they respond to your questions. I have also had good luck North Coast Spa & Hot Tub at http://www.ncspa.com/parts.html.

Empty the spa, clean the interior tub surface, and clean filters two or three times a year (depends on usage). I replace my filter(s) once a year. I buy my filters at www.focuspools.com. For cleaning filters, use cleaner specifically formulated for use with spa filters. Other types of cleaners may damage the filters or alter the water chemistry. Dirty filters can damage the spa pump and electronics and may create less stable water chemistry. Keep your filters clean!

For more information on spas (repair, glossary, maintenance) try the following sites:

www.spababes.com

www.focuspools.com

Using the above advice and tips you can enjoy you spa with less stress and expense. After all, you bought the tub to relax!

Testing Electrical Receptacles

In this post, I will address how to test your home electrical outlets for the integrity of wiring. I will only address polarized receptacles with a ground that are found in modern or recently renovated homes. You can check the wiring of your outlets with an inexpensive circuit tester available for about $7 at your big box or local hardware store. Typically the testers have 3 lights that indicate that the wires are properly connected, not connected, or are improperly connected.

Some testers (like the illustration below) come with a GFI (Ground Fault Interupter) tester which is a button that, when pushed, creates a small short which should cause the GFI protection to turn off power to the receptacle being tested. But, the best way to test a GFI receptacle or a GFCI breaker (at the electrical panel) is not by using a receptacle tester but by pushing the integrated test button on the GFI receptacle or GFCI breaker itself. When the test button is pushed the circuit should "trip". It is then necessary to press the integrated reset button to reactivate the circuit.

Receptacle Tester

For the receptacle tester shown above, there is one red light and 2 amber lights. For a correctly wired outlet the red light will not glow and both amber lights will glow. Various combinations of lights on and off (shown on the label) will indicate various issues with the receptacle wiring. This type of tester will not indicate the quality of the ground, 2 hot wires in the circuit, or the reversal of grounded and grounding conductors. The last statement makes the tester seem pretty useless, but actually the tester will detect nearly all common improper wiring conditions.

What in the heck is a GFI?

A GFI is a device that is designed to shut off the flow of electricity if an electrical leak is detected. The GFI compares the current flowing out through the hot wire (black) to the current flowing out through the neutral wire (white). If the current flowing out through the white wire is less than the current flowing through the white wire, the GFI assumes that there is a "leak" and shuts off the circuit. This all happens quickly enough that electrocution can be prevented.

What does polarized mean?

With 120V circuits, the black wire is intended to be hot (called ungrounded) and the white wire is intended to be neutral (called grounded). If the two wires are reversed, the polarity is reversed. Why does polarity matter? Polarity matters with appliances that have switches. When an appliance is plugged into an outlet, the power should travel only as far as the switch. If there is a reversed polarity condition, the power will run through the entire appliance and back to the switch. A loose wire in the appliance could cause the appliance to be electrically charged which would be a shock hazard. Even though a device/appliance may function if the hot and neutral wires are reversed, it is potentially dangerous. After installing an outlet, the outlet should always be tested for polarity. If the tester indicates a reverse polarity condition, the outlet needs to be rewired.

Ice Damming

What is Ice Damming?

Ice damming is a phenomenon that occurs in climates where snow accumulates on the roof surface. Most frequently it forms at the lower edge of a roof but can also occur near party walls (i.e. parapet walls that are shared between separate residences sharing the same roof), at the bottom of roof valleys, and below skylights.

Signs of Ice Damming

Ice damming is a result of snow melting, flowing down the sloped roof, and refreezing at a colder area of the roof surface. Icicles hanging off gutters, between siding boards, from the soffit are a sure sign that ice damming is taking place. Another sign is discolored icicles. Ice damming can be worsened by gutter systems. In some heavy snow areas gutters and downspouts in installed seasonally as the weight of the ice can pull the system away from the building.

Damage from ice damming can be seen along the wall/ceiling intersection line on the interior as stains, dampness, or dripping. Damaged areas may not be located directly in line with the ice damming problem. Water can travel along rafters and joists and manifest itself fairly far from the cause. If you find evidence of water only when it is cold and there are icicles present and not in rainy seasons or drier, warmer weather, you can be confident that ice damming is the cause of the problem.

Causes of Ice Damming

In cold climates the ceiling surface in the living space below the roof/attic needs to be insulated from the cold interior of the space between the ceiling and the roof. This is not just a cost issue (wasted heat) but necessary to keep the roof surface cool. The space below a roof needs to be well ventilated with outside air from the peak to the eave. If heat escapes into the attic and the attic is not sufficiently ventilated, the warm air will cause the snow on the roof to melt, flow down to the colder overhang area of the roof, refreeze, and begin to build up forming a dam. As this process continues, the water “backs up” the roof higher and higher and eventually under the surface of the roof covering. The water finds an entrance point such as the joint between the structural wood surface of the roof, and travels to an interior wall or ceiling.

Tech Tip

Total vent area should be 1/300 of the floor space of the attic. Total vent are equals the sum of the actual vent area provided by the soffit, ridge, roof, and gable vents. At least 50% of the total vent area should be provided by the soffit vents. If the soffit vents provide less than 50% of the total vent area, a negative pressure can occur in the space below the roof and warm, moist air can be drawn in exacerbating the ice damming problem, increasing heating costs, an damaging the underside of the roof structure from moisture.

Example:

The floor space of the attic is measured to be 1200 sq. ft.

Total Required Vent Area: 1/300 X 1200 = 4 sq. ft.

Soffit Vent Area: .5 X 4 = 2 sq. ft.

Combined gable, ridge, and roof Vent Area: .5 X 4 = 2 sq. ft.

If the roof slope is less than 2 in 12, or for cathedral roofs with no attic space a total vent area of 1/150 of the roof area should be used.

Ways to Prevent Ice Damming

• On new roofs or roof replacements install at least 9ft. of ice and water barrier up from the eaves on the roof surface (under the shingles).

• Avoid installing recessed ceiling lighting in any ceiling under an attic.

• Don’t install skylights.

• Make sure that you have 12”-14” of insulation properly installed in the attic.

• Make certain that the access panel to the attic space has as much insulation on it as is installed in the rest of the attic. Use weather stripping to seal the attic hatch.

• Bathroom ceiling fans should have short, insulated ducts. Ducts should be vented properly to the outside.

• Avoid installing any fixtures in the ceiling that will allow the warm air of the interior living space to escape into the attic.

• Check that the soffit baffles are present and not blocked by insulation (located in the attic where the roof meets the attic floor).

• Make sure that your entire roof surface is cold by using adequate ventilation (see Tech Tip above).

• Make sure that some or all of the soffit vents are not dummies. Some siding contractors install vent material under the eaves but fail to cut openings through the soffit. This is more common when house exteriors are resided.

What About Heat Tape?

Don’t waste your time and money on this “fix”. Focus on the root cause of the ice damming problem which is usually poor ventilation, escaping warm air, and/or poor insulation. If you must use heat tape, recognize that the tape must be heated before snow settles on the roof surface. Heat tape should be replaced every 2 years. Between the weather and the ultraviolet light from the sun, heat tape deteriorates quickly. Also, heat tape fasteners can damage your roof.

Furnace Filters and Maintenance

Most everyone I know ignores their furnace. It just seems to be one of those things that no one wants to deal with. But, with just a little bit of attention, you can keep your furnace and your house air healthy.

For most home furnaces up to 10 years in age, cleaning and inspection by a professional is required only every 2 years. After 10 years, you should have your furnace inspected and cleaned once a year. Of course, technicians will recommend servicing every year from day one. It can't hurt, but it is an unnecessary expense.

Furnace filters should be replace when they are dirty, not ever XX months. There are two major furnace filter types-mechanical and electronic.

Mechanical Type Filters

Mechanical filters range between 1 and 5 inches in thickness. They provide a physical barrier to airborne particles. The finer the "holes" the smaller the particles that will be trapped. The furnace should not be operated without filter(s) in place (some furnaces require more than one filter). Make certain that the filter is installed correctly. The direction of placement is indicated by an air flow arrow located on the outer "rim" for the filter. The arrow should be pointed in the direction of the air flow.

Some Lennox furnaces use a basket type fiberglass filter which sets in a wire frame. The frame itself is not a filter. Don't operate this type of furnace without the fiberglass media installed.

With filters, generally you get what you pay for. Cheap filters can collapse and be sucked into the blower/fan compartment. Cheap filters will only filter the largest of airborne filters. Cheap filters usually need to be replaced more frequently. Persons with allergies will get no relief from the use of cheap filters. Filters range in price from <$1 to $35.

I use a Skuttle High Efficiency filter. It is 5" thick and each filter runs about $26 (I buy them online). We replace our filter every 3 to 6 months. We do not have pets, and this can make a big difference in how long a filter will last.

TIP #1
Our thermostat fan setting is always set to "ON"...not AUTO. If you set your fan to the "ON" position you can enjoy a much reduced level of dust in your home and on your furniture surfaces. The air is continually filtered and is never allowed to settle. Your home will also have a more consistent temperature throughout. If someone in your home has allergies, the severity of their reaction to dust particles will be reduced because the air is super filtered. And, believe it or not, your blower will last longer-yes, longer. Starting and stopping your blower is harder on it than running it constantly. We never turn our blower off (throughout the year).

Tip #2
Don't try to clean a dirty filter, even with compressed air. Break out your wallet and buy a new filter.

Electronic Type

Some (manufacturers?) claim that electronic filters are more efficient (than mechanical). I don't think that they are any more efficient than a well maintained high efficiency mechanical filter. Electronic filters consist of a metal cabinet, a removable air cleaner unit, 120V electrical connection, and a switch. Dust particles drawn across the wires or plates are attracted to the electrically charged surfaces where the particles remain until the air cleaner unit is cleaned. When removing the unit for cleaning, make sure that the power is OFF. Do not stick your hand into the unit. Wait 30 seconds before sliding the unit out of the cabinet. This allows the residual charge to dissipate. Be very careful when handling the unit(s). The units consist of very fine wires and are delicate. They can be easily broken and may be sharp. Clean the unit per the manufacturer's instructions. I know of homeowners who run the units through a cycle in their dishwasher, but I can't vouch for this method.

Tip #3
Change dirty filters. Dirty filters restrict airflow, reduce comfort, increase operating costs, can ice up air conditioning coils, and overheat the heat exchanger. Keeping your filter clean is your first and most significant defense against damage and wear and tear on your furnace.

The Ten Power Tools of Christmas

If you are a new homeowner and plan on doing remodeling and repairs you will certainly want to review the Ten Power Tools of Christmas. They include the tools that will be most useful to you as you make your needed and dream improvements. Our Santa is not magnanimous enough to deliver all of the tools to us on a single holiday and usually requires 10 years of gifts.

1. Air Compressor
2. 3-Nailer Combos (16-guage finish nailer, 18-gauge brad nailer, ¼ inch crown stapler) to use with your compressor
3. Shop Vacuum
4. Variable Speed Reciprocating Saw
5. Small Battery Powered Drill/Driver
6. Standard Size Battery Powered Drill
7. Quality 1” Wide Steel 25’ Measuring Tape
8. Compound Power Miter Saw
9. Table Saw
10. Palm Sander

Depending on Santa’s budget, the Measuring Tape may qualify as a stocking stuffer. But, your Measuring Tape is the one tool that will be used on every single job. It pays to buy the best. Now a Measuring Tape does not run on electricity, but by every other measure (please forgive the pun), it is a power tool.

Since it will take most readers several years to accumulate the full complement of these tools, I’ll review about one a month. That way, next Christmas or Hanukah, Santa can start delivering them one at a time. Or, if you are really good, you may receive them all. Evidently, I've never been that good, but it’s always best to stay positive.

Selecting a Builder

Prior to contracting a homebuilder for your dream home, you need to do some preliminary homework. Check out potential builder's credit history and references. Visiting homes completed by the builder will enable you to see, first hand, the quality and craftsmanship the builder delivers. Remember when viewing a builders' model home, that they are showing their best work. If possible, talk with previous customers about there experiences. Some things to look for include:

• Checking out the builder's foundation methods. Generally, a poured concrete foundation provides a better basement than concrete blocks-but, in some areas of the country builder's use one or the other exclusively. All foundations should include some type of waterproofing system. A circumference type drainage system should be included.
  
• Observe the quality of the cuts made by the framer. Rafters should be tightly joined with uniform angles. Wall studs should not be warped and should be equally spaced and straight.
• Drywall board should be screwed, not nailed. Nailed board will almost always show "nail pops" over time.
• House wrap should be used to reduce "windwashing". The house wrap should be taped with no spaces around openings such as windows and doors.
• All openings to the exterior should be caulked or insulated.
• Check that windows and doors work smoothly. Overuse of foam insulation can cause warping leading to sticky windows and doors.
• Floor joists should be solid with cutouts no larger than 1/3 of the joist width present.
• Check the basement walls for dampness and efflorescence.
  
• Gutters and downspouts should be secure. Downspouts should extend at least 6' away from the foundation. Each downspout should not serve more than 30' of gutter.
• Roof shingles should be flat and straight.
• Ventilation of the attic space should measure at least 1/300 of the floor space. At least 50% of the ventilation should come from the soffit vents.
• Siding should be straight and flat.
• Check that finished walls and ceilings are straight, flat, and not wavy
• Interior molding should fit tight against the walls, floors, and ceilings. Angled joints should be neat and tight without the use of fillers and caulk.
• Flooring and stairs should be secure with no movement or squeaks.
• Carpet seams should be invisible. Hardwood flooring should be uniform and tight. Flush hardwood registers are a sign of high quality craftsmanship.
• Paint on walls and ceilings should be uniform, even, and smooth. The gloss level across the surface should not vary. Look for complete coverage.
• Electrical wiring, plumbing, and ducts should be neat. Labeling of these items is a sign of a builder who values craftsmanship.
• Check for water supply shutoffs at each sink and toilet
• Check for water supply shutoffs in the basement supply lines for each item supplied.

Assume nothing. Open lines of communication between the builder and the buyer are key to satisfaction.

Radon-How Concerned Should You Be?

Radon is a naturally occurring, cancer-causing (per the US EPA), radioactive gas that can be found in homes all over the US and in every state and county. No level of radon exposure has been deemed to be safe by the EPA. The EPA, however, recommends that you fix your home if the test result is higher than 4pCi/L.

If you have not had your home checked for radon, you can do it for as little as $15. Or, you can hire a certified (NEHA-NRPP) operator to provide you with a measurement. If done correctly, a $15 activated charcoal kit available at stores such as Home Depot and Lowe's, can give you a pretty good idea of the radon level in your home. If you prefer to hire a radon measurement professional, first contact your state radon office about obtaining a list of qualified testers.

Either way, you should know what the radon level is in your home. Do not assume that, because your neighbor's radon measurement is "acceptable", that you are safe. Radon levels can vary dramatically within the same county or within the same neighborhood. It is true that some areas across the country have demonstrated higher radon levels than others.

Three reasons for knowing the radon level in your home or potential home are:

• you do not want to expose you or your family to any radon (particularly above 4 pCi/L, per the EPA) as there may be long term health consequences
• when you sell your home, the prospective buyer may have a radon measurement taken-and you may loose the sale if the measurement is determined to be 4pCi/L or higher
• a home you are considering purchasing has not had a radon measurement done by a certified operator

Fixing a home with should be done by a certified radon mitigation contractor. The typical costs of mitigation work generally runs between $800 and $2500.

Resources for radon information include:

Guide to Radon Reduction
www.epa.gov/radon/pubs

NEHA-NRPP (National Radon Proficiency Program/National Environmental and Health Association)
www.neha-nrpp.org/

Links and list of privately certified professionals serving your area and more information
www.epa.gov/radon/proficiency.html

Selecting a Roofing Contractor

There are many roofing contractors-good and bad-honest and dishonest. Some of the shadiest characters claim to be roofers. They taint the trade for the majority of roofing contractors who perform a quality, timely, honest, service oriented business.

• Get recommendations from others and checkout their roofs.
• Ask for references from potential roofing contractors & check them out.
• Ask if the contractor is insured for damage and on-the-job accidents. Ask him to have their insurance company fax or email you proof.
• Don’t pay the roof contractor upfront for the entire job. A reputable contractor has good enough cash flow to order materials. It’s OK to pay the contractor for the materials after they are delivered to your home. Don’t pay the final payment for the job until the work is completed, including the cleanup.
• Get several estimates for the same job (at least 3). Make sure the quotes cover the same materials and workmanship.
• A qualified contractor will help you obtain financing, if you need it.

Before signing a contract make sure that the contract states in detail:

• the work to be completed
• the specific materials to be used
• completion date and penalties
• warrantees & guarantees
• cleanup (removal of materials)
• total price
• method of payment

If you are financing the work make certain that the contract clearly states:

• purchase price
• amount of down payment
• balance owed
• number of installments
• finance charges
• interest rate
  
  
  

Roofing Code and Best Practices

While much of what is written below is from the N.Y. State Residential Roofing Code, it is common sense for any re-roofing job. The code is not stated verbatim to avoid confusion and I have added comments for clarification.

Recovering vs. Replacement

New roof coverings should not be installed without first removing existing (old) roof coverings under the following circumstances:

• Where the existing (old) roof is wood shake, slate, clay, cement or asbestos cement tile

• Where the existing (old) roof is water-soaked, or has deteriorated to the point that the existing roof or roof covering is not adequate as a base for additional roofing to be installed

• Where the existing roof has two or more applications of an type of roof covering already installed

With asphalt shingles, more than two layers of covering, when combined with the weight of snow, can exceed the weight supporting capability of the roof sub-structure.

Slope

Asphalt 3-in-1 shingles shall not be used in low pitch roofs (lower than 2/12). This type of shingle is not suitable for low pitch roofs as water cannot be easily shed from the surface and wind can blow rain up and under shingles to the unprotected surface of the roof structure.

Ventilation

Enclosed attics and enclosed rafter spaces formed where ceilings are applied directly to the underside of the roof rafters (virtually all home types) shall have cross ventilation for each separate space by ventilating openings protected against rain or snow. The total net free ventilation area shall not be less than 1/150 of the (floor) space ventilated (if the square footage of the “floor” of the space is 1000 sq. ft. then 6.7 sq. ft. of ventilation is required).

The total ventilation area can be permitted to be reduced to 1/300 of the (floor) space, provided that 50%-80% of the required ventilating area is provided by ventilators located in the upper portion of the to-be-ventilated space, which should be 3 feet above the eave or cornice (gable end vents) vents.

ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) recommends that the total vent area be 1/300 of the floor space of the attic for all areas where the roof slope is two in twelve or greater. At least 50% of the vent area should be at the soffits with the remainder at the ridge, roof, or gable vents. If the soffit vents provide less than 50% of the venting, the result can be negative pressure in the attic space causing warm moist air to be sucked out of the living space (through the ceiling, ceiling fixtures, around openings, etc.). Where the slope is less than two in twelve or for a cathedral roof with no attic space, the vent area should be increased to 1/150 of the roof area.

Ice Protection

An ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or a self-adhering polymer modified bitumen sheet (as an ice and water shield) shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment. The ice barrier shall extend up from the eave’s edge to a point at least 24 inches inside the exterior wall line of the building.

Preparing Your Home For An Absence

If you plan to leave your home for several days or months, here is a checklist of items you should consider:

• Place on vacation hold or have temporarily forwarded all deliveries such as mail and newspapers.
• Have someone periodically check and remove hanging door ads, flyers, etc. Items left un-retrieved provide a clue that no one is staying in the home.
• Set light timers. Place extra bulb(s) on kitchen counter. Using compact fluorescent bulbs is best-they last longer and are cheaper to operate. Periodically, have someone check that the timers are functioning properly (e.g. units may need resetting after power failure) and that the light bulbs are OK.
• Disable your electric garage door opener. Garage door opener can be disabled by either unplugging the unit or by pulling on the mechanical disconnect, usually located on the overhead rail.
• Leave some curtains/blinds open to give the appearance of a lived-in look.
• Remove any emergency key(s) left outside (under mat, in planter, fake rock?). Thieves know to check most locations for extra keys.
• Set your security alarm. Install security protection sign on front and rear of property near entrances to home. Place security stickers on first floor windows. Your security system provider should provide both free of charge.
• Secure all doors and windows.
• Remove captive thumbturn on dead bolted doors with sidelight windows or doors with windows within 6’ of lock.
• Remove key(s) in deadbolt locks.
• Place security bar in track of all slider type doors to help prevent forced entry.
• Have someone periodically check your windows and doors to verify that they are secure.
• Make certain that all security, dusk/dawn activated, and motion detector activated lighting is functioning properly. Periodically, have someone check that lighting is functioning properly.
• Set furnace/AC to target temperatures. Leave thermostat manual on kitchen counter in case someone needs to reset them.
• Schedule service, including clearing of snow covered walkways (November-March). Have someone verify that contractor is providing services per the agreement.
• Schedule a lawn mowing service (April-November). Have someone verify that contractor is providing services per the agreement.
• Make certain that your personal & homeowners insurance policies are up-to-date.
• Close fireplace damper(s). Install a screened cap(s) on chimney(s).
• Secure all valuables in a safe or a safety deposit box.
• Place a copy of your home inventory in a safety deposit box and/or take a copy with you. In case of fire, you do not want your only copy left in your home. If you do not have a home inventory, create one or contract with a provider of home inventory services.
• Unplug all unused transformers such as those included with “dust busters”, radios, cordless phones, battery operated tools, cell phones and cell phone accessories, computer printers & scanners, paper shredders, PDAs, etc. All needlessly consume power.
• Unplug televisions. Televisions consume power even when they are not being used.
• Shut down computer, printer, external hard drives, fax machines, etc. Unplug power protection strips that supply the computer(s) and accessories. Back up your important data and photographs and place a copy in a safe deposit box and/or take a copy with you
• Unplug or shut off dedicated circuit breaker(s) to your microwave oven. Microwave ovens can be negatively affected by power surges or thunderstorms.
• Notify only trustworthy neighbors that you will be away. Only inform individuals with a critical need to know of your travel plans. Be cautious of informing others (even casually).
• Turn off gas supply valves to water heater, grills, gas fireplaces, auxiliary heaters, etc. Do not turn off the gas supply to units that are required to maintain required target temperature.
• Turn of water supply at main shutoff, unless your heating system or any other systems require water to operate properly (e.g. water powered sump pump back-up units, boilers).

If you cannot turn off your main water supply:

· turn off the water supply to your washing machine

· turn off the water supply to your refrigerator ice makers

· have someone periodically check your plumbing your for leaks

• Run the water in all sinks, showers, and tubs (including the utility tub) and flush all toilets. If you will be away for more than 4 weeks, have someone refill each trap to prevent sewer gases from entering your home.
• Remove all hoses and diverters from outside faucets.
• Turn off refrigerator ice maker unit(s) ─ usually by lifting the ice maker bail arm. This will stop the water demand signal from your refrigerator. If you are unplugging your refrigerator/freezers, place a box of baking soda inside each compartment and leave the doors partially open to allow for some air flow-this will prevent returning to a stale smelling appliance.
• Discontinue/place on hold services not required while you are away (DSL, garbage pickup, etc.). Schedule services for maintenance of pools, spas/hot tubs, ponds, etc.
• Some homeowners choose to notify their local police department of their travel plan dates. If you are contracting with a service to check on your home, provide the service provider name and phone number to the police department.
• Make certain that access to swimming pools, hot tubs, ponds, etc. are secure/locked. Inform anyone that may have a need to walk your property of the location for each. Snow cover can completely hide the existence of these potential hazards.
• Review this list immediately prior to vacating your home and check off each item.
• Consider contracting a professional service to periodically visit your home and check it out while you are away. Neighbors and relatives are a good back-up, but sometimes, while good intentioned, they fail to visit with enough frequency and/or may not be thorough and completely knowledgeable about home systems. Make sure that the professional service is insured.

Protecting Your Home From Water Leaks When You Are Away

This subject is close to my heart. I have been called many times by family members “watching” a house for a relative or friend who have a leaking ice-maker supply line or valve or a leaking washing machine supply hose/bib that I want to scream “Turn off your main water supply line when you leave for even an overnight absence!” (Unless, of course, you have other systems that require a supply of fresh water-then, at least turn off the individual valves to the ice maker or washing machine).

You should have a simple saddle valve that allows you to turn off your ice maker. You also should have a spigot-type valve for your washer supply hoses for shutting off both the hot and cold water supply. But, even turning off the valves doesn’t prevent the issue of a leaky valve.

Typical Saddle Valve

To safeguard your home from leaks, turn off the main supply at the water meter. Sometimes these valves, particularly if left unused for long periods of time, can leak when opening or closing the valve. The easiest way to shut off your main supply is to have a ball valve installed on the main supply line, right after the main shutoff valve. A ball valve requires that you just rotate a lever on the valve 90°. Ball valves rarely stick or leak and are very easy to turn off and on.

Typical Ball Valve

What's This Blog All About?

This is the beginning of a blog dedicated to the homeowner who periodically encounters problems and is seeking common sense answers. All types of issues will be discussed, including mechanical systems (heating, air conditioning, spas/hot tubs, etc.), electrical systems, decorating, construction, new materials and methods, and some landscaping and gardening.

What makes me think that I know enough to cover all of these issues? Well, I have a lot of connections with people in various trades, I am a licensed Home Inspector, I studied Civil Engineering, I have a home services business, and I will research any issue when more information is needed. Most of all, I just love the subject and have been reading about it and working on it for many years.

If you don’t like what I write, tell me so. I might be wrong-you might be wrong-we both might be wrong. But, if enough people share their opinions, eventually we will get it right.

Homeowners have various levels of abilities for tackling the issues that undoubtedly will arise in any typical home. This blog will assume that the reader has some rudimentary skills and knowledge. If you are confused or need more clarification, let me know and I will do my best to provide more information. In some cases, I will suggest that it is best to have a professional do the job (or part of the job).

Some subjects that I believe are best left to professionals include roofing and large drywall projects. The cost savings to risk/quality ratio for these tasks is not great enough to make doing it yourself worth your time and effort.

OK. That’s it for today.