Clothes Dryer Ducting & Venting

According to FEMA, there are about 15,600 fires, 15 deaths, and 400 injuries every year that are caused by clothes dryer fires. Seventy per cent of the fires are attributed to "failure to clean". Failure to clean means more than just "remove the lint from the lint filter after each cycle". This blog will address the most common issues related to dryers and dryer duct materials and maintenance.

First, some basics. A full load of wet clothes contains as much as 1.5 gallons of water. No homeowner would consider pouring 1.5 gallons of water on the basement floor, inside of a crawlspace, or into an attic each time a load of clothes was dried. So, every dryer should be vented. Failure to do this can cause considerable damage to the wood structure in the enclosed area and can also promote the growth of mildew and mold. Just as with bathroom vents, always, always vent the air to the outside of the building. Outside means outdoors, not just out of the immediate living area.

Dryer venting should not exceed the equivalent length of 25'. Each 90° elbow effectively adds 5' to the equivalent length. So, a vent pipe with 2-90° elbows reduces the possible length of the straight piping to a maximum of 15'. Always keep the vent pipe system as short as possible.

The American Household Appliance Manufacturers Association recommends the use of UL listed rigid aluminum or steel duct or spiral-wound aluminum flex hose. Vinyl (usually white) flexible hose should never be used for clothes dryer venting systems.

Vinyl Flexible Hose is Not Acceptable for Venting Clothes Dryers

In fact, smooth rigid ducting is preferred as it is easier to clean the inside surface and the inside surface provides no interruptions that can restrict airflow and increase turbulence (as can even occur with spiral wound aluminum hose). The smooth surface of a rigid duct prevents lint from collecting inside the vent. However, sometimes it is very difficult to install rigid duct by convoluted space restrictions and spiral wound aluminum flex hose must be used.

When attaching sections of straight pipe and elbows, do not use sheet metal screws which will act as lint traps. Always tape the joints using UL-181 Approved metal foil tape. This is true for rigid steel and aluminum duct or aluminum spiral wound aluminum flex hose.

Typical Metal Foil Tape

Blockage of dryer venting systems is the most prevalent cause of clothes dryer fires. Blockage of the system reduces the airflow and can create a highly flammable fuel source. Failure to keep the system lint-free will also lengthen the drying time for each load. A clothes dryer must work much harder to move the moisture and lint through the ducting and can cause some dryer components to fail. Clean the lint filter after every load. Some clothes and materials (fuzzy blankets, coats, etc.) can completely block the lint filter after a single cycle.

A secondary source of blockage can occur at the outside wall damper. If there is no damper, birds and bees can enter and build homes that severely restrict the required air flow. The wall damper can also become clogged with large collections of lint. All clothes vent systems should exit through a wall damper that prevents infiltration by insects and bees. Homeowners should make a habit of checking the outside wall damper at least once a month. If you can't remember, put it on your calendar. My wall damper exits near the patio, so I try to make a visual check whenever I pass by.

Typical Louver Type Wall Damper
(dryer is operating in photo)

In summary:

• Clean out your lint filter after each dry cycle
  
• Keep the length of the vent pipe system as short as possible and always no longer than 25'
  
• Install an outside wall vent that will prevent bees and birds from entering
• Always duct the system to the outdoors
• Never use vinyl hose as your ducting material
  
• Attach sections of vent piping using UL-181 Approved metal foil tape--never use screws
• Inspect your duct system periodically to make certain that it is providing a clean, clear path to the outdoors
• Inspect your outside wall vent ever month to make certain that it is functioning properly
• Never place items such as plastic, foam, or other synthetic materials that can increase the risk of fire
• If you notice that clothes, such as jeans, towels, or blankets are taking a long time to dry or that the clothes feel hotter than usual at the end of the cycle, inspect your lint filter and vent system for blockages.
  

Spa & Hot Tub Tips and Maintenance

Spa Care-The Stuff Nobody Tells You

You bought a spa to relax and relieve your tension, but now you are faced with the ongoing task of testing the water and keeping it balanced. There are some other issues that may arise that are rarely discussed anywhere. This posting is not meant to deal with the routine maintenance (but I’ll have to talk about some of the basics) but rather some tips to make it easy.

First, a spa is not “a small pool”. While the equipment is similar to a pool system (pump, filter, heater) there are significant differences. First is the water temperature. Typical pool water temperature ranges between 78 and 82 degrees F while spa water temperature is typically 102 to 104 degrees F. The rate of bacteria growth increases in the warmer water of the spa. This warmer water opens skin pores making the participants more susceptible to skin infections. Additionally, there are usually more bathers per gallon of water in a spa. This means that the bacteria, etc. entering the water via the bathers is greater per gallon. These differences make it critical that proper water chemistry is maintained. Sounds difficult and scary but actually I have found that maintaining a spa is far simpler than maintaining a pool.

First, you need to test the water with some type of test kit. I use test strips (I use AquaChek Pool & Spa Test Strips).

Tip #1

My daughter, who works in a medical research lab, gave me this tip. Cut the test strips lengthwise with a pair of scissors. A 50-test strip container now provides 100 strips.

The test strips indicate, by color changes to the 4 pads, the chemistry for your water. The four indicators are for Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity, and Cyanuric Acid. If the strip indicates a low chlorine reading, add chlorine. If the pH needs adjustment, add pH Up or pH Down-whatever is needed. You will find that your water has a specific profile. For example, I never need to use pH Down-only pH Up. Bromine is also used in place of chlorine (bromine does not have the strong smell typical of chlorine).

Tip #2

Test your water chemistry at least once a week-even if no one has used the spa during the week.

Test your water chemistry after a period of heavy usage-like after a party.

Test your water chemistry after every time you add water.

Keep your tub covered and locked when not being used. It is safer, cheaper to operate, and it reduces the required maintenance. A cover will last 3-5 years. I buy my replacement covers at http://www.thecoverguy.com/.

Tip #3

Avoid putting anything in the water such as fragrances. I find that they mess up the chemistry. Burn incenses or light a candle instead.

If your tub is located outside (the best location for several reasons) and you live in a cool climate, mice may try to set up residence in your tub enclosure cabinet. Even though the ventilation slots are small and the openings are screened, mice will find a way in. If they decide to live in your tub enclosure their urine will begin to become offensive to the spa users.

Tip #4

To keep mice out of your tub cabinet try the following:

Remove the access door several times a season and check for droppings or small pieces of insulation.

Place sheets of fabric softener stuffed in various areas inside the cabinet area. Mice don’t like the smell.

Keep a spray bottle of peppermint water near the spa. Every time you use the spa spray the mixture around the outside perimeter. Mice don’t like the smell of peppermint either.

Place poison pellets inside (not outside-you don’t want to kill the cat) the cabinet.

If you need to repair your spa (replace pump, motor, heater element-if electric, etc.), know that it is quite a simple system and that handy individuals can manage it themselves. If you are not knowledgeable about electricity, plumbing, or gas, hire a technician. For parts, I buy them at www.spacare.com. They have a good troubleshooting section on their website, they are knowledgeable, and they respond to your questions. I have also had good luck North Coast Spa & Hot Tub at http://www.ncspa.com/parts.html.

Empty the spa, clean the interior tub surface, and clean filters two or three times a year (depends on usage). I replace my filter(s) once a year. I buy my filters at www.focuspools.com. For cleaning filters, use cleaner specifically formulated for use with spa filters. Other types of cleaners may damage the filters or alter the water chemistry. Dirty filters can damage the spa pump and electronics and may create less stable water chemistry. Keep your filters clean!

For more information on spas (repair, glossary, maintenance) try the following sites:

www.spababes.com

www.focuspools.com

Using the above advice and tips you can enjoy you spa with less stress and expense. After all, you bought the tub to relax!

Testing Electrical Receptacles

In this post, I will address how to test your home electrical outlets for the integrity of wiring. I will only address polarized receptacles with a ground that are found in modern or recently renovated homes. You can check the wiring of your outlets with an inexpensive circuit tester available for about $7 at your big box or local hardware store. Typically the testers have 3 lights that indicate that the wires are properly connected, not connected, or are improperly connected.

Some testers (like the illustration below) come with a GFI (Ground Fault Interupter) tester which is a button that, when pushed, creates a small short which should cause the GFI protection to turn off power to the receptacle being tested. But, the best way to test a GFI receptacle or a GFCI breaker (at the electrical panel) is not by using a receptacle tester but by pushing the integrated test button on the GFI receptacle or GFCI breaker itself. When the test button is pushed the circuit should "trip". It is then necessary to press the integrated reset button to reactivate the circuit.

Receptacle Tester

For the receptacle tester shown above, there is one red light and 2 amber lights. For a correctly wired outlet the red light will not glow and both amber lights will glow. Various combinations of lights on and off (shown on the label) will indicate various issues with the receptacle wiring. This type of tester will not indicate the quality of the ground, 2 hot wires in the circuit, or the reversal of grounded and grounding conductors. The last statement makes the tester seem pretty useless, but actually the tester will detect nearly all common improper wiring conditions.

What in the heck is a GFI?

A GFI is a device that is designed to shut off the flow of electricity if an electrical leak is detected. The GFI compares the current flowing out through the hot wire (black) to the current flowing out through the neutral wire (white). If the current flowing out through the white wire is less than the current flowing through the white wire, the GFI assumes that there is a "leak" and shuts off the circuit. This all happens quickly enough that electrocution can be prevented.

What does polarized mean?

With 120V circuits, the black wire is intended to be hot (called ungrounded) and the white wire is intended to be neutral (called grounded). If the two wires are reversed, the polarity is reversed. Why does polarity matter? Polarity matters with appliances that have switches. When an appliance is plugged into an outlet, the power should travel only as far as the switch. If there is a reversed polarity condition, the power will run through the entire appliance and back to the switch. A loose wire in the appliance could cause the appliance to be electrically charged which would be a shock hazard. Even though a device/appliance may function if the hot and neutral wires are reversed, it is potentially dangerous. After installing an outlet, the outlet should always be tested for polarity. If the tester indicates a reverse polarity condition, the outlet needs to be rewired.

Ice Damming

What is Ice Damming?

Ice damming is a phenomenon that occurs in climates where snow accumulates on the roof surface. Most frequently it forms at the lower edge of a roof but can also occur near party walls (i.e. parapet walls that are shared between separate residences sharing the same roof), at the bottom of roof valleys, and below skylights.

Signs of Ice Damming

Ice damming is a result of snow melting, flowing down the sloped roof, and refreezing at a colder area of the roof surface. Icicles hanging off gutters, between siding boards, from the soffit are a sure sign that ice damming is taking place. Another sign is discolored icicles. Ice damming can be worsened by gutter systems. In some heavy snow areas gutters and downspouts in installed seasonally as the weight of the ice can pull the system away from the building.

Damage from ice damming can be seen along the wall/ceiling intersection line on the interior as stains, dampness, or dripping. Damaged areas may not be located directly in line with the ice damming problem. Water can travel along rafters and joists and manifest itself fairly far from the cause. If you find evidence of water only when it is cold and there are icicles present and not in rainy seasons or drier, warmer weather, you can be confident that ice damming is the cause of the problem.

Causes of Ice Damming

In cold climates the ceiling surface in the living space below the roof/attic needs to be insulated from the cold interior of the space between the ceiling and the roof. This is not just a cost issue (wasted heat) but necessary to keep the roof surface cool. The space below a roof needs to be well ventilated with outside air from the peak to the eave. If heat escapes into the attic and the attic is not sufficiently ventilated, the warm air will cause the snow on the roof to melt, flow down to the colder overhang area of the roof, refreeze, and begin to build up forming a dam. As this process continues, the water “backs up” the roof higher and higher and eventually under the surface of the roof covering. The water finds an entrance point such as the joint between the structural wood surface of the roof, and travels to an interior wall or ceiling.

Tech Tip

Total vent area should be 1/300 of the floor space of the attic. Total vent are equals the sum of the actual vent area provided by the soffit, ridge, roof, and gable vents. At least 50% of the total vent area should be provided by the soffit vents. If the soffit vents provide less than 50% of the total vent area, a negative pressure can occur in the space below the roof and warm, moist air can be drawn in exacerbating the ice damming problem, increasing heating costs, an damaging the underside of the roof structure from moisture.

Example:

The floor space of the attic is measured to be 1200 sq. ft.

Total Required Vent Area: 1/300 X 1200 = 4 sq. ft.

Soffit Vent Area: .5 X 4 = 2 sq. ft.

Combined gable, ridge, and roof Vent Area: .5 X 4 = 2 sq. ft.

If the roof slope is less than 2 in 12, or for cathedral roofs with no attic space a total vent area of 1/150 of the roof area should be used.

Ways to Prevent Ice Damming

• On new roofs or roof replacements install at least 9ft. of ice and water barrier up from the eaves on the roof surface (under the shingles).

• Avoid installing recessed ceiling lighting in any ceiling under an attic.

• Don’t install skylights.

• Make sure that you have 12”-14” of insulation properly installed in the attic.

• Make certain that the access panel to the attic space has as much insulation on it as is installed in the rest of the attic. Use weather stripping to seal the attic hatch.

• Bathroom ceiling fans should have short, insulated ducts. Ducts should be vented properly to the outside.

• Avoid installing any fixtures in the ceiling that will allow the warm air of the interior living space to escape into the attic.

• Check that the soffit baffles are present and not blocked by insulation (located in the attic where the roof meets the attic floor).

• Make sure that your entire roof surface is cold by using adequate ventilation (see Tech Tip above).

• Make sure that some or all of the soffit vents are not dummies. Some siding contractors install vent material under the eaves but fail to cut openings through the soffit. This is more common when house exteriors are resided.

What About Heat Tape?

Don’t waste your time and money on this “fix”. Focus on the root cause of the ice damming problem which is usually poor ventilation, escaping warm air, and/or poor insulation. If you must use heat tape, recognize that the tape must be heated before snow settles on the roof surface. Heat tape should be replaced every 2 years. Between the weather and the ultraviolet light from the sun, heat tape deteriorates quickly. Also, heat tape fasteners can damage your roof.

Furnace Filters and Maintenance

Most everyone I know ignores their furnace. It just seems to be one of those things that no one wants to deal with. But, with just a little bit of attention, you can keep your furnace and your house air healthy.

For most home furnaces up to 10 years in age, cleaning and inspection by a professional is required only every 2 years. After 10 years, you should have your furnace inspected and cleaned once a year. Of course, technicians will recommend servicing every year from day one. It can't hurt, but it is an unnecessary expense.

Furnace filters should be replace when they are dirty, not ever XX months. There are two major furnace filter types-mechanical and electronic.

Mechanical Type Filters

Mechanical filters range between 1 and 5 inches in thickness. They provide a physical barrier to airborne particles. The finer the "holes" the smaller the particles that will be trapped. The furnace should not be operated without filter(s) in place (some furnaces require more than one filter). Make certain that the filter is installed correctly. The direction of placement is indicated by an air flow arrow located on the outer "rim" for the filter. The arrow should be pointed in the direction of the air flow.

Some Lennox furnaces use a basket type fiberglass filter which sets in a wire frame. The frame itself is not a filter. Don't operate this type of furnace without the fiberglass media installed.

With filters, generally you get what you pay for. Cheap filters can collapse and be sucked into the blower/fan compartment. Cheap filters will only filter the largest of airborne filters. Cheap filters usually need to be replaced more frequently. Persons with allergies will get no relief from the use of cheap filters. Filters range in price from <$1 to $35.

I use a Skuttle High Efficiency filter. It is 5" thick and each filter runs about $26 (I buy them online). We replace our filter every 3 to 6 months. We do not have pets, and this can make a big difference in how long a filter will last.

TIP #1
Our thermostat fan setting is always set to "ON"...not AUTO. If you set your fan to the "ON" position you can enjoy a much reduced level of dust in your home and on your furniture surfaces. The air is continually filtered and is never allowed to settle. Your home will also have a more consistent temperature throughout. If someone in your home has allergies, the severity of their reaction to dust particles will be reduced because the air is super filtered. And, believe it or not, your blower will last longer-yes, longer. Starting and stopping your blower is harder on it than running it constantly. We never turn our blower off (throughout the year).

Tip #2
Don't try to clean a dirty filter, even with compressed air. Break out your wallet and buy a new filter.

Electronic Type

Some (manufacturers?) claim that electronic filters are more efficient (than mechanical). I don't think that they are any more efficient than a well maintained high efficiency mechanical filter. Electronic filters consist of a metal cabinet, a removable air cleaner unit, 120V electrical connection, and a switch. Dust particles drawn across the wires or plates are attracted to the electrically charged surfaces where the particles remain until the air cleaner unit is cleaned. When removing the unit for cleaning, make sure that the power is OFF. Do not stick your hand into the unit. Wait 30 seconds before sliding the unit out of the cabinet. This allows the residual charge to dissipate. Be very careful when handling the unit(s). The units consist of very fine wires and are delicate. They can be easily broken and may be sharp. Clean the unit per the manufacturer's instructions. I know of homeowners who run the units through a cycle in their dishwasher, but I can't vouch for this method.

Tip #3
Change dirty filters. Dirty filters restrict airflow, reduce comfort, increase operating costs, can ice up air conditioning coils, and overheat the heat exchanger. Keeping your filter clean is your first and most significant defense against damage and wear and tear on your furnace.