The Ten Power Tools of Christmas

If you are a new homeowner and plan on doing remodeling and repairs you will certainly want to review the Ten Power Tools of Christmas. They include the tools that will be most useful to you as you make your needed and dream improvements. Our Santa is not magnanimous enough to deliver all of the tools to us on a single holiday and usually requires 10 years of gifts.

1. Air Compressor
2. 3-Nailer Combos (16-guage finish nailer, 18-gauge brad nailer, ¼ inch crown stapler) to use with your compressor
3. Shop Vacuum
4. Variable Speed Reciprocating Saw
5. Small Battery Powered Drill/Driver
6. Standard Size Battery Powered Drill
7. Quality 1” Wide Steel 25’ Measuring Tape
8. Compound Power Miter Saw
9. Table Saw
10. Palm Sander

Depending on Santa’s budget, the Measuring Tape may qualify as a stocking stuffer. But, your Measuring Tape is the one tool that will be used on every single job. It pays to buy the best. Now a Measuring Tape does not run on electricity, but by every other measure (please forgive the pun), it is a power tool.

Since it will take most readers several years to accumulate the full complement of these tools, I’ll review about one a month. That way, next Christmas or Hanukah, Santa can start delivering them one at a time. Or, if you are really good, you may receive them all. Evidently, I've never been that good, but it’s always best to stay positive.

Selecting a Builder

Prior to contracting a homebuilder for your dream home, you need to do some preliminary homework. Check out potential builder's credit history and references. Visiting homes completed by the builder will enable you to see, first hand, the quality and craftsmanship the builder delivers. Remember when viewing a builders' model home, that they are showing their best work. If possible, talk with previous customers about there experiences. Some things to look for include:

• Checking out the builder's foundation methods. Generally, a poured concrete foundation provides a better basement than concrete blocks-but, in some areas of the country builder's use one or the other exclusively. All foundations should include some type of waterproofing system. A circumference type drainage system should be included.
  
• Observe the quality of the cuts made by the framer. Rafters should be tightly joined with uniform angles. Wall studs should not be warped and should be equally spaced and straight.
• Drywall board should be screwed, not nailed. Nailed board will almost always show "nail pops" over time.
• House wrap should be used to reduce "windwashing". The house wrap should be taped with no spaces around openings such as windows and doors.
• All openings to the exterior should be caulked or insulated.
• Check that windows and doors work smoothly. Overuse of foam insulation can cause warping leading to sticky windows and doors.
• Floor joists should be solid with cutouts no larger than 1/3 of the joist width present.
• Check the basement walls for dampness and efflorescence.
  
• Gutters and downspouts should be secure. Downspouts should extend at least 6' away from the foundation. Each downspout should not serve more than 30' of gutter.
• Roof shingles should be flat and straight.
• Ventilation of the attic space should measure at least 1/300 of the floor space. At least 50% of the ventilation should come from the soffit vents.
• Siding should be straight and flat.
• Check that finished walls and ceilings are straight, flat, and not wavy
• Interior molding should fit tight against the walls, floors, and ceilings. Angled joints should be neat and tight without the use of fillers and caulk.
• Flooring and stairs should be secure with no movement or squeaks.
• Carpet seams should be invisible. Hardwood flooring should be uniform and tight. Flush hardwood registers are a sign of high quality craftsmanship.
• Paint on walls and ceilings should be uniform, even, and smooth. The gloss level across the surface should not vary. Look for complete coverage.
• Electrical wiring, plumbing, and ducts should be neat. Labeling of these items is a sign of a builder who values craftsmanship.
• Check for water supply shutoffs at each sink and toilet
• Check for water supply shutoffs in the basement supply lines for each item supplied.

Assume nothing. Open lines of communication between the builder and the buyer are key to satisfaction.

Radon-How Concerned Should You Be?

Radon is a naturally occurring, cancer-causing (per the US EPA), radioactive gas that can be found in homes all over the US and in every state and county. No level of radon exposure has been deemed to be safe by the EPA. The EPA, however, recommends that you fix your home if the test result is higher than 4pCi/L.

If you have not had your home checked for radon, you can do it for as little as $15. Or, you can hire a certified (NEHA-NRPP) operator to provide you with a measurement. If done correctly, a $15 activated charcoal kit available at stores such as Home Depot and Lowe's, can give you a pretty good idea of the radon level in your home. If you prefer to hire a radon measurement professional, first contact your state radon office about obtaining a list of qualified testers.

Either way, you should know what the radon level is in your home. Do not assume that, because your neighbor's radon measurement is "acceptable", that you are safe. Radon levels can vary dramatically within the same county or within the same neighborhood. It is true that some areas across the country have demonstrated higher radon levels than others.

Three reasons for knowing the radon level in your home or potential home are:

• you do not want to expose you or your family to any radon (particularly above 4 pCi/L, per the EPA) as there may be long term health consequences
• when you sell your home, the prospective buyer may have a radon measurement taken-and you may loose the sale if the measurement is determined to be 4pCi/L or higher
• a home you are considering purchasing has not had a radon measurement done by a certified operator

Fixing a home with should be done by a certified radon mitigation contractor. The typical costs of mitigation work generally runs between $800 and $2500.

Resources for radon information include:

Guide to Radon Reduction
www.epa.gov/radon/pubs

NEHA-NRPP (National Radon Proficiency Program/National Environmental and Health Association)
www.neha-nrpp.org/

Links and list of privately certified professionals serving your area and more information
www.epa.gov/radon/proficiency.html

Selecting a Roofing Contractor

There are many roofing contractors-good and bad-honest and dishonest. Some of the shadiest characters claim to be roofers. They taint the trade for the majority of roofing contractors who perform a quality, timely, honest, service oriented business.

• Get recommendations from others and checkout their roofs.
• Ask for references from potential roofing contractors & check them out.
• Ask if the contractor is insured for damage and on-the-job accidents. Ask him to have their insurance company fax or email you proof.
• Don’t pay the roof contractor upfront for the entire job. A reputable contractor has good enough cash flow to order materials. It’s OK to pay the contractor for the materials after they are delivered to your home. Don’t pay the final payment for the job until the work is completed, including the cleanup.
• Get several estimates for the same job (at least 3). Make sure the quotes cover the same materials and workmanship.
• A qualified contractor will help you obtain financing, if you need it.

Before signing a contract make sure that the contract states in detail:

• the work to be completed
• the specific materials to be used
• completion date and penalties
• warrantees & guarantees
• cleanup (removal of materials)
• total price
• method of payment

If you are financing the work make certain that the contract clearly states:

• purchase price
• amount of down payment
• balance owed
• number of installments
• finance charges
• interest rate
  
  
  

Roofing Code and Best Practices

While much of what is written below is from the N.Y. State Residential Roofing Code, it is common sense for any re-roofing job. The code is not stated verbatim to avoid confusion and I have added comments for clarification.

Recovering vs. Replacement

New roof coverings should not be installed without first removing existing (old) roof coverings under the following circumstances:

• Where the existing (old) roof is wood shake, slate, clay, cement or asbestos cement tile

• Where the existing (old) roof is water-soaked, or has deteriorated to the point that the existing roof or roof covering is not adequate as a base for additional roofing to be installed

• Where the existing roof has two or more applications of an type of roof covering already installed

With asphalt shingles, more than two layers of covering, when combined with the weight of snow, can exceed the weight supporting capability of the roof sub-structure.

Slope

Asphalt 3-in-1 shingles shall not be used in low pitch roofs (lower than 2/12). This type of shingle is not suitable for low pitch roofs as water cannot be easily shed from the surface and wind can blow rain up and under shingles to the unprotected surface of the roof structure.

Ventilation

Enclosed attics and enclosed rafter spaces formed where ceilings are applied directly to the underside of the roof rafters (virtually all home types) shall have cross ventilation for each separate space by ventilating openings protected against rain or snow. The total net free ventilation area shall not be less than 1/150 of the (floor) space ventilated (if the square footage of the “floor” of the space is 1000 sq. ft. then 6.7 sq. ft. of ventilation is required).

The total ventilation area can be permitted to be reduced to 1/300 of the (floor) space, provided that 50%-80% of the required ventilating area is provided by ventilators located in the upper portion of the to-be-ventilated space, which should be 3 feet above the eave or cornice (gable end vents) vents.

ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) recommends that the total vent area be 1/300 of the floor space of the attic for all areas where the roof slope is two in twelve or greater. At least 50% of the vent area should be at the soffits with the remainder at the ridge, roof, or gable vents. If the soffit vents provide less than 50% of the venting, the result can be negative pressure in the attic space causing warm moist air to be sucked out of the living space (through the ceiling, ceiling fixtures, around openings, etc.). Where the slope is less than two in twelve or for a cathedral roof with no attic space, the vent area should be increased to 1/150 of the roof area.

Ice Protection

An ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or a self-adhering polymer modified bitumen sheet (as an ice and water shield) shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment. The ice barrier shall extend up from the eave’s edge to a point at least 24 inches inside the exterior wall line of the building.